Many attempts have been made to describe New York. Nigel Goslin called it 'a granite beehive, where people jostle and whirl like molecules in an overheated jar." John Jay Chapman famously said that "the present in New York is so powerful that the past is lost." But perhaps the most classic quote and the one which rings truest for tourists comes from Thomas Wolfe. "One belongs to New York instantly," he reflected. "One belongs to it as much in five minutes as in five years."

The Big Apple is a city of diversity. Walk down Broadway or join the hustle and bustle in Time Square and you'll see faces of every shape and hue, clothes in every style under the sun and behaviour ranging from the rigidly conventional to the utterly bizarre. Whether you get your kicks from high culture, fashion, food or fitness, New York will titillate you, draw you in, and then pick you up and whirl you away like a cork in white rapids. It's a place where you can feel alienated, shocked and even disgusted but never, ever bored; a city that truly doesn't sleep, where life hares along at the pace of a roaring express train.

If you haven't been to the Big Apple before then you can read up on the facts - the city is the most densely populated in the US with a massive 8,274,527 inhabitants, nearly 36 per cent of its population was born outside of the country and it is one of the only metropolises in the world which has mass transit available 24/7 - but nothing will prepare you for the experience of exploring those famous streets. Visit in winter and you'll be greeted with sub zero temperatures, clouds of mist rising from ventilation grids, and aromas of hot chocolate and mixed spices wafting from light-hung streets cafes. In summer, think sweltering humidity, pungent smells, a glittering harbour vista dotted with white sailing boats, and sunglass-clad fashionistas sipping wildly expensive drinks under striped street awnings. This is America at its very best and its very worst, an uncompromising city with a serious attitude where anybody, whatever their colour, creed or tastes, can feel truly at home.

To truly get under the skin of the city, avoid the obvious tourist attractions and stick to the spots where the locals hang out. The East Village is at the heart of bohemian New York and offers a true taste of authentic city living, while China Town is a bustling, reeking hub where east meets west and produces some of the best food in the northern hemisphere. Visit Webster Hall for burlesque entertainment, drop into Harry' Burritos on 71st Street for a taste of heaven and admire the artwork in the architecturally magnificent New Museum. And - if you still have time after seeing New York as the locals experience it - take a trip up the Empire State Building. After all, there are some tourist experiences that you really can't miss out on.

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